Mariachi Plaza
East LA is about mariachis, murals, Mexican food and much, much more. It has a long, rich and diverse history. This is where Jewish immigrants from the East Coast first settled when they moved to LA and was the center of LA Jewish life in the early 20th century. The main thoroughfare was named Brooklyn Avenue. Next came a wave of Japanese Americans and now the area is primarily Mexican American. Brooklyn Avenue is now Cesar Chavez Avenue. Famous people born in East LA include Oscar de la Hoya, Edward James Olmos and Mayor Antonio Villaraigosa.
Spending a day visiting the eastside is a chance to explore the Mexican side of the city. LA has been called the mural capital of the world. East LA has some of the best in the city; many painted by well-known artists when they were starting their careers. Drive along Cesar Chavez, Soto Avenue and the side streets around them and you’ll find murals on walls of botánicas, barbershops and markets. Two of the best murals are “Moctezuma” at Cesar Chavez and Bernal Avenue, and “Mujer del Este de Los Angeles” -- a two-story tribute to the women of East LA -- on South Pecan near Fourth Street.
East LA has an especially vibrant arts community. Much of the credit goes to Self Help Graphics (3802 Cesar E. Chavez Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90063). Started in the 1970s by East LA artists who needed a gallery to exhibit their works, it was also a practical way to share the costs of expensive silkscreen equipment. The center is well-known for its limited edition, silkscreen works of art by local artists. There are several gallery shows a year. Even when there isn’t a show, it’s still worth stopping by to see the exterior mosaics, murals and a shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe in the rear parking lot.
Plaza de la Raza Cultural Center (3540 North Mission Road, Los Angeles, CA 90031) is located beside a lake in one of LA’s oldest parks, Lincoln Park. Chicano/Latino musical, dance and drama groups perform here regularly. The gallery features shows of Chicano/Latino art.
East LA College’s Vincent Price Gallery (1301 Avenida Cesar Chavez, Monterey Park, CA 91754) was the first institutional art gallery to open in East LA. Shows often attract more than 20,000 visitors and have featured Congo sculpture, sculpture for the blind and a Rufino Tamayo retrospective. Legendary horror film star Vincent Price donated art from his own collection, making it one of the few U.S. colleges with the resources of a major art collection (estimated value: more than $5 million).
At California State University LA (CSULA), the Luckman Fine Arts Complex (5151 State University Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90032) has one of the largest stages in LA, plus a more intimate theater. Both offer music, dance, theatre, film and video events in striking, contemporary settings. Arches tower over the complex’s Street of the Arts, which links all the venues including the art gallery.
Mariachi Plaza (101 N Boyle Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90033) was set up as a place for mariachi to gather -- some in full mariachi attire. Locals know this is where to hire a duo or entire conjunto for a party, wedding or quinceñera (a girl’s 15th birthday celebration). Mariachis also often stroll through restaurants playing requests at tables.
Not only is East LA the place to hear music -- the finest mariachi guitars are made right here at Candelas Guitars (2724 E.Cesar Chavez Ave Los Angeles, CA. 90033). A warm, family-run shop of master luthiers (handcrafting mariachi, flamenco, acoustic and classical guitars), Candelas Guitars’ well-known customers include Los Lobos, Jackson Browne, Ozomatli and Andres Segovia.
Whether dining out or buying the ingredients, East LA has the best. El Mercado (3425 E. 1st St., Los Angeles, CA 90063) feels like a true Mexican marketplace beginning with the vibrant exterior murals. The mural of Edward James Olmos was commissioned for a cover on Time magazine. The complex is three stories high, but skip the first floor and check out the second floor grocery with its Mexican food ingredients. On the third floor, a half-dozen or so cafes and stalls wrap around a center court open to the downstairs grocery. These stalls offer traditional Mexican dishes, mostly familiar but also birria (goat) and nopales (cactus). On weekends and other busy occasions, more than one mariachi band plays at the same time, so it’s best to sit at a table close to one band.
Nearby at Los 5 Puntos (3300 E Cesar E Chavez Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90063), customers watch corn tortillas being made by women behind the counter; patting, shaping and cooking them on griddles. Then, they go straight into your hands. The tortilleria also sells tasty tacos, tamales and carnitas. Expect a line -- this is an East LA institution. Whatever you order, the best way to enjoy it is hot -- inmediatamente -- even if that means eating in your car in the parking lot, which many customers do.
For a more expansive selection, El Tepeyac (812 N Evergreen Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90033) has a full Mexican menu -- but most people order the legendary Hollenbeck Burrito (the largest burrito you’ve ever seen). Named for the street the eatery is on, as well as the nearby LAPD Hollenbeck division station, crime novelist Joseph Wambaugh came here when he was a police officer and made this whopper of a burrito famous in his novels. LAPD officers still crave it.
La Serenata de Garabaldi (1842 East First Street, Los Angeles, CA 90033) is a linen-tablecloth restaurant and Angelenos from all over the city come here for fresh and inventive Mexican-style seafood. La Serenata is famous for its handmade tortillas. Another specialty is sopes. It’s not soup, but rather thick cornmeal shells with a choice of toppings.
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