Hakobe
By Tara de Lis
For dineLA.com
Most everybody knows Nobu and Nozawa. We’ve made it our mission to seek out lesser-known, underappreciated sushi bars, the kind of hidden gems that make you want to say, “I know a little place …”
But first, a quick word about etiquette. If you’re content with California rolls, ignore this entire paragraph. In a good sushi joint, your manners make all the difference. If you’ve ever left a legendary Japanese restaurant nursing your pocketbook and scratching your head, it could be because you committed any of the following faux pas: moving your serving tray, mixing wasabi or, God forbid, ginger, into your soy sauce, which, by the way, is not a sunken tub for sushi to leisurely bathe; a swift and gentle surface scratch in minimal sauce will suffice. Eat Nigiri fish-side down—fingers are fair game. Sit at the bar and buy your chef a beer. Trust him.
An homage to the handcrafted Japanese Kiriko glassware, Ken Namba applies the same artisan principles to his exquisite food, which runs the gamut from purist to populist. As Namba explains, “We carry some exotic fish that people have never seen before (like saberfish). Some are prepared in a way that’s been true for 50 to 100 years, some in a very modern way.” Salmon is house-smoked and wrapped around mango, then topped with American sturgeon caviar—a pescaterian play on prosciutto and melon. Scallops are served with Namba’s version of pesto, olive oil, shiso leaf and pine nuts. The show-stopping signature dish is an unbelievably rich seared toro with roasted jalapenos.
Artistry is also a focal point here, down to pressed-flower serving trays and gold flake accents in select dishes. Co-owner Pat Yoshida, a licensed floral arranger, believes that “anything made by hand, not just sushi—painting, jewelry—comes from the heart.” An arsenal of creative plates includes truffled, tempura-battered Kumamoto oysters; salmon belly topped with marinated ikura, and a golden eye snapper with seared skin and rice. The piece de resistance, though, will fascinate some and appall others, ultra-fresh live sweet shrimp plated with its own egg sack and the often still-moving head, which is later deep fried or served in miso soup.
A verdant setting this is not. Park refers to the owner/chef Peter’s surname, which is Korean, not Japanese. Though he didn’t grow up rooted in the culture, he embraced it. Think of him as a kinder, gentler Nozawa. The rules are strict (no California or spicy tuna rolls, salads, teriyaki or takeout). What he does serve is first-rate omakase, a skill he crafted in an apprenticeship at Yotsuya. Black snapper from Greece is skin-seared, toro textbook, king scallop in-shell, along with less familiar selections like jackfish and skipfish. Park says, “Portions are very important to me … the rice, wasabi and fish are supposed to combine together in one bite.”
Opened in 2008, Ikko is known for truly unusual fish completely unfamiliar to most Americans, even those who consider themselves serious sushi-philes. We’re talking chicken grant (a white fish) and golden thread (similar to snapper). A list of daily specials is almost as long as the regular menu. Like octopus? Would you prefer the skin or the tentacles? Both are available. Then there’s the out-of-this-world sautéed scallops with bright yellow pumpkin cream sauce and pink peppercorns, and a robust grilled foie gras with gravy-like Cabernet “saikyo” miso. Tempura is first rate; the abalone is recommended.
Known to regulars as simply Shoei’s, after chef/owner Shoei Urasaki, who paid his dues at Iroha, this little mom-and-pop operation somehow flies under the radar in one of the most heavily foot-trafficked areas of West Hollywood. The chef can be as traditional or experimental as customers wish—just know it’ll take a little time because he’s on his own back there. Halibut sashimi is topped with yuzu and served directly on a bed of ice; “biscotti,” basically his interpretation of spicy tuna on crunchy rice, is a signature; and regulars love various specialty rolls named after presidents.
Though this used to be another sushi place, it has more of the look and feel of an old diner. Katsuya this is not, but you’re not coming for the décor. And if your idea of sushi includes California rolls or anything at all cooked, you’re not coming here at all. The kitchen is completely ignored—even shrimp heads simply roly-poly their way into the garbage. Portions are small, but burst with flavor. High points include halibut, blue crab, and abalone, though the best effect might be the tongue-numbing sensation of sansho on sensational saltwater eel.
If you mosey up to Kazu’s bar, expect critique. He flat out admits, “Some customers, I have to teach them how to eat … [they] are desperately clumsy and messy. I almost have to close my eyes.” The upside for those who play by the rules is, one, respect, which translates into two, better food and service. The quality here is fiercely fresh. Yellowtail belly possess what Kazu-san likens to a “second skin” and Scottish salmon is topped with sweet kelp. A small bowl of monkfish liver (think Japanese foie gras) is pearly pink and accented by ponzu-like jelly and two types of tobiko.
Strip malls in general carry a certain stigma, but it’s an extra dubious distinction to be based in what Silver Lake locals refer to as “crackhead mini mall.” The old ‘book by its cover’ adage comes to mind with Saito, a fixture here since 1997. Gruff in general, Saito-san warms to repeat visitors, who appreciate his fixation on fresh fish. Spanish mackerel is a favorite, its telltale skin prompting jalapeno-salivation among regulars. Uni is perfectly clean, almost sweet. Halibut is treated with a pinch of red ground dried daikon.
Kimono-clad owner and former model Asako opened her “dream restaurant” on Beverly Hills’ storied Restaurant Row and recruited Kenny Yamada, most recently of Takami downtown, to head up the kitchen. A trained magician, his slight of hand skills are equally deft with fish. He likes his sauces and the way foods pair with them. Amberjack sashimi swims in peach ponzu and lemon juice. Rock shrimp tempura is encased in a ribbon-wrapped “purse,” which is paired with creamy curry. Seared tuna is flecked with garlic chips and spicy cream sauce—the heat nicely offset by seaweed. You think fried Twinkies were fun? Try sea urchin tempura!
Tucked away in the basement of the Biltmore Hotel, this little gem stocks sizable sushi bar offerings, as well as pan-Asian tapas. Salmon is a strong point, be it lemon-marinated or baked perfectly rich and topped with sesame seeds. The yellowtail was also particularly fresh, and a red dragon roll successfully married shrimp tempura, crab, avocado and its kick-started spicy tuna and tobiko topping. Non-sushi eaters will embrace the small plates concept, highlighted by a family recipe for a sweet honey- and soy-braised eggplant and the spicy Singaporean chili prawns.
Ajisai, 809 Palm Ave, West Hollywood, 310.652.7014
Hakobe, 14 N. La Cienega Blvd, Beverly Hills, 310.652.0007
Ikko, 21008 Hawthorne Blvd, Torrance, 310.371.7197
Kazu, 11440 Ventura Blvd, Studio City, 818.763.4836
Kiriko, 11301 Olympic Blvd, Ste102, West L.A., 310.478.7769
Nishi-ya, 1712 Victory Blvd, Glendale, 818.244.2933
Sai Sai, 501 S Olive St, Downtown L.A., 213.624.1100
Saito, 4339 W. Sunset Blvd, Silver Lake, 323.663.8890
Sushi Dokoro Kirala, 9777 S. Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills, 310.275.9003
Sushi Park, 8539 W. Sunset Blvd, Ste 20, West Hollywood, 310.652.0523
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