Cole's French Dip Sandwich
For dineLA.com
The sandwich traces its eponymous roots back to an English Earl; as the legend goes, the Fourth Earl of Sandwich was such a compulsive gambler that he refused to the leave the table to eat or even put down his cards—and didn’t want to soil them with messy food either.
Hence the concept was born; but the basic idea of edibles placed between bread is far from just Anglo; in fact, it’s culturally ubiquitous. From all-American grilled cheese sandwiches and Mexican tortas to Italian subs and Vietnamese banh mis, get the skinny on some of the top sandwiches in LA.
There’s probably no better place to start than what many consider the city’s signature sandwich—the one that was actually invented here more than 100 years ago: the French dip. To this day, no one can say with certainty whether Phillippe or Cole’s can truly take the credit. No matter, both are classics, and the standout at each is the gloriously gamey lamb.
Its served hand-cut and either single-or double-dipped at the former counter-service favorite; the latter has taken it more upscale in the speakeasy-style subterranean setting, where its presented with a side of au jus—and an optional “black Manhattan” cocktail pairing.
- Cole’s, 118 East 6th St, Los Angeles, 213.622.4090, colesfrenchdip.com
- Philippe the Original, 1001 N Alameda St, Los Angeles, 213.628.3781 philippes.com
Throwing it’s newbie hat in the ring, the Oaks Gourmet Market, near Beachwood Canyon, is doing up an unusual but deeply complex pulled short rib French onion dip, with just the right amount of kick from a potent marriage of horseradish cream, truffled watercress and sherry au jus.
- Oaks Gourmet Market 915 N. Bronson Ave, Hollywood, 323.871.8894, theoaksgourmet.com
At Joan’s on Third, their take on the slow-cooked short rib sandwich is served on savory country white bread smothered in butter to achieve crispy perfection, and with the gooeyness of the Monterey Jack, oozingly juicy meat, sweet red onions, and bite of arugula, there’s nary a need for spread.
- Joan’s on Third, 8350 West 3rd St, Los Angeles, 323.655.2285, joansonthird.com
The original is still tops for most—all the different elements gel into what chef/owner Mark Peel waxes poetic as the “hot, melty cheese; the sharpness of the onions, pungency of the whole grain mustard and the crunch of the country white bread.”
- Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, 323.938.1447, campanilerestaurant.com
Silverton herself is continuing to make great sandwiches at her new takeaway spot — Mozza 2 Go —adjacent to the Pizzeria and Osteria Mozzas. The porchetta, in particular, is rustic and generously seasoned, cradled, of course, on expertly baked bread.
- Mozza2Go, 6610 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, 323.297.1130, mozza2go.com
From panini night to panini lunch, Drago Centro has introduced a special midday menu of pressed goodies. The earthy black truffle-buttered “tramezzino,” with parma proscuitto, provolone and arugula steals the show.
- Drago Centro, 525 S Flower St, Los Angeles, 213.228.8998, dragocentro.com
No discussion of Italian sandwiches would be complete without mention of Santa Monica specialty import shop and revered local deli Bay Cities, home of “the godmother,” which has inspired a legion of local devotees—and destination diners. A stack of high quality cold cuts are layered between crusty bread—the sum being much greater than the whole of its high-quality parts.
- Bay Cities Italian Deli, 1517 Lincoln Blvd, Santa Monica, 310.395.8279, baycitiesitaliandeli.com
At Nicole’s Gourmet Foods in Pasadena, namesake owner Nicole Grandjean offers her a Southwestern French spin on the croque monsieur. Hailing from a hometown known for regional goat cheeses, she substitutes musty (in a good way) Selles-sur-Cher for Gruyere, and melts it down with Madrange ham and tomatoes on grilled ciabatta.
- Nicole’s Gourmet Foods, 921 Meridian Ave, South Pasadena, 626.403.5751, nicolesgourmetfoods.com
Another outlet offering an interesting spin on an old classic is Petrossian, where the 1925 egg salad sandwich is brought up to haute standards. Served crustless and layered with caviar, cucumber and crème fraiche, it wouldn’t feel out of place at the highest of high teas.
- Petrossian, 321 N Robertson Blvd, West Hollywood, 310.271.6300, petrossian.com
Variations of the BLT are fun, too. Culver City’s Beacon serves an “ABLT,” with seared fresh albacore, wasabi mayo, lettuce, tomato and Nueske bacon. Co-owner Vicki Fan Matsusaka says [it’s] so popular, we can’t take it off the lunch menu.
- Beacon, 3280 Helms Ave, Culver City, 310.838.7500, beacon-la.com
*photo courtesy of weezermonkey, www.weezermonkey.com
- The Gorbals, 501 S Spring St, Los Angeles, 213.488.3408, thegorbalsla.com
Speaking of Jewish influence, there are those purists who say our delis can never compete with to those in New York. Many an East Coaster has met their match with No. 19 at Langer’s in McArthur Park. Piled high with hand-cut (upon request) pastrami, Swiss cheese, slaw and Russian dressing, it’s a contender.
- Langer’s, 704 South Alvarado St, McArthur Park, 213.483.8050, langersdeli.com
Century City’s Breadbar bakery and restaurant does a sensational signature corned beef sandwich brine-cured in house with bell peppers and pickles.
- Breadbar, 10250 Santa Monica Boulevard, Century City, 310.277.3770, breadbar.net
Another house-cured specialty is the Scandinavian-style gravalax sandwich at the homey Larchmont Larder cottage. It’s light and flavorful, served with cucumbers, picked red onion and dill, with sweet honey mustard on pumpernickel bread.
- Larchmont Larder, 626 N Larchmont Blvd, Larchmont Village, 323.962.9900, larchmontlarder.com
Just down the street, Larchmont Village Wine, Spirits & Cheese offers more straight-up American heros with European influences, such as a roasted turkey breast sandwich on a French baguette with a sundried tomato spread, extra virgin olive oil and balsamic. Says store President Sergio Boccato, "We opened up the wine shop in 1995 and two years later we had expanded into the next available space and created a gourmet food and cheese section, which evolved into sandwiches ..."
- Larchmont Village Wine, Spirits & Cheese, 223 N Larchmont Blvd, Larchmont Village, 323. 856.8699
- Water Grill, 544 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, 213.891.0900, watergrill.com
For a little taste of the City of Brotherly love near beautiful downtown Burbank, South Street is an homage to all things Philly, from live broadcasts of the city’s sporting teams to rib-eye hoagies cooked with provolone and white American cheese and sautéed onions on authentic Amoroso Italian rolls.
- South Street, 117 N Victory Blvd, Burbank 818.563.2211, southstreetcheesesteak.com
Moving down the Eastern Seaboard, Zeke’s does a great take on Carolina-style pulled pork at its family-friendly eatery in Montrose. Topped with refreshing coleslaw and pickled onions, the tangy classic goes great with the light bite mustardy “back porch” sauce.
- Zeke’s, 2209 Honolulu Ave, Montrose, 818.957.7045, zekessmokehouse.com
- Zeke's, 7100 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, 323.850.9353, zekessmokehouse.com
And down south to New Orleans, the ‘Zeek’ po' boy—named after Westside staple Uncle Darrow’s alligator logo—consists of cornmeal-crusted, fresh farm-raised catfish and shrimp topped with a yellow-tinted potato salad.
- Uncle Darrow’s, 2560 S Lincoln Blvd, Venice, 310.306.4862, uncledarrows.com
Mexican tortas hold court at King Torta in Lincoln Heights. The bread is freshly baked, and fillings such as the sizzling, well-seasoned carne asada, along with onions, cilantro and avocado, burst out with perfection.
- King Torta, 4507 Valley Blvd, Lincoln Heights, 323.222.7006
A haute taste of Havana can be experienced at Milk with the gussied up media noche (midnight) sandwich, a close cousin to the regular Cuban, only served on sweet bread. Think topnotch roasted pulled pork and ham with Manchego cheese, pickles and a garlic mayo.
- Milk, 7290 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, 323.939.6455, themilkshop.com
At the Veggie Grill, nothing is as it seems, which is especially true in the case of the fried “chicken” sandwich. It’s not really chicken at all, but rather a mix of soy and wheat. But one bite and it’s hard to know or care, with this healthy version of a fast food classic.
- Veggie Grill 8000 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, 323.822.7575, veggiegrill.com
At Zankou Chicken, however, the chicken is definitely poultry-based, and the marinated tarna sandwich here has inspired everything from alternative music lyrics to countless spinoffs. Slathered in secret recipe garlic sauce, it’s a cult classic gone mainstream.
- Zankou Chicken, 10760 Riverside Dr, Toluca Lake, 818 655.0469, zankouchicken.com
Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches bring together crisp vegetables and tangy meats on French-style baguettes. At Alhambra’s Banh Mi My Tho, the portions are generous. Layers of pickled carrots, daikon, cilantro and other vegetables join favorite protein charbroiled pork for crispy, crunchy goodness.
- Banh Mi My Tho, 304 W Valley Blvd, Alhambra, 626.289.4160
