Simon L.A.
WITH A TWIST
IN-FUSIONS
THE GRAIN IN SPAIN
POTPOURRI OF PASTA
CARBS GONE WILD
GLUTEN-FREE
By Tara de Lis
For dineLA.com
From comfort food classics to gussied-up gourmet fare, we ended up practically carb-otose to bring you these mac-daddy-worthy picks.
Macaroni and cheese is the quintessential American comfort food. For most people, at least growing up, that meant one thing: Kraft Blue Box. And many restaurants are riffing off the time-tested childhood favorite, bringing everyone from teenagers to hipsters to boomers back to their roots. There’s also an “out of the box” (so to speak) contingent elevating the prefab staple into upscale eats involving truffles, shellfish, spices and infused sauces.
Franklin Village’s The 101 Coffee Shop (6145 Franklin Ave, Hollywood, 323.467.1175) is a dark, vintage-style diner known to many “the last Cappuccino before the 101.” Here, large elbow pasta is covered with cheese and parsley on top, while inside lies a creamy, molten center of goodness.
Fairfax favorite Lola’s (945 N Fairfax Ave, West Hollywood, 323.654.5652) is known for its vast and sometimes off-kilter martini menu – it’s half-surprising they don’t serve one with butter and cream, given the garlic mashed potato option! – but they do make a mean macaroni and cheese dish full of it. Traditional in taste and texture, it’s made with elbow pasta, cheese sauce and topped with a little Parmesan for the crust. Our server recommended it with the house chimichurri; sure enough, the herby, garlicky kick was entirely satisfying. 
Henry’s Hat (3413 Cahuenga Blvd West,
Universal City, 323.512.2500), Universal City’s upscale-casual sports bar offers an “ultimate” baked-to-order mac and cheese with a whopping seven cheeses, which is quite good but oddly more creamy than cheesey; Black Forest ham is optional. 
There was a time when the thought of adding lobster to mac and cheese would have seemed let-them-eat-cake-level unimaginable. Not anymore. Capital Grille (8614 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, 310.358.0650) has a great rendition involving the plump shellfish and a winning blend of white cheddar, Havarti, mascarpone and Grana Padano.
Fleming’s (800 W Olympic Blvd, Downtown, 213.745.9911) is a steakhouse first and foremost, but the mac and cheese here is one of its most popular dishes. The primarily profile here is cheddar – squared. Mostly it’s sharp, but a touch of smoked cheddar gives it enough oomph that chef/partner Calvin Holladay says, “people [always] think there’s bacon in it!” Combine that with a touch of chipotle in the breadcrumbs, and it’s simply sensational.
Eric Greenspan’s The Foundry on Melrose (7465 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, 323.651.0915) version is an homage to his mom's recipe, which oddly called for ketchup. He jokes, “You can’t charge a lot of money for ketchup in food,” so instead he mimics it with oven roasted tomatoes and caramelized onions. And the cheese, or rather cheeses? Gruyere, goat, blue, cheddar … 
Downtown’s Corkbar (Corkbar, 403 W 12th St, 213.746.0050) has the advantage of suggested wine pairings with each and every item on the menu, including the mac and cheese side. Or go off-menu based on server feedback. In this case, the Qupe Chardonnay/Viognier Cuvee worked wonders on the mild spice of the roasted pasilla peppers mixed into the cheddar and Monterey Jack mélange. 
At Ford’s Filling Station (9531 Culver Blvd, Culver City, 310.202.1470), chef/owner Ben Ford likes to say, “in general I don’t do anything too straight up … the guys in the kitchen like to say [I put] ‘the Ford twist’ on things … The only macaroni and cheese I ever had growing up was Kraft, so here I’m literally thinking out of the box.” This translates into a subtly smoky mac with ham hock, Fresno chiles, mustard, breadcrumbs, cheddar and Gruyere. 
Power lunch favorite Kate Mantilini (9101 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, 310.278.3699) offers up an eclectic version with onions, light Tabasco, crunched crackers on top and Canadian cheddar. It takes the basic classic and makes it just adult enough to evoke childhood but also excite a grown-up palate. 
Simon L.A.’s (8555 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, 310.358.3979) truffled mac and cheese features large elbows in a deliciously soupy, truffle-y bowl of goodness. According to dining room staff, people come from all over just for this one dish; fair warning: it’s only served at dinner. 
Speakeasy-style Magnolia (492 S Lake Ave, Pasadena, 626.584.1126) in Pasadena proffers “Sugar’s” mac, which mixes white cheddar, Gruyere, Romano, shallots, topped with a sourdough crust and green onions. On Wednesday nights form 8pm to 11pm, it’s all-you-can-eat. It’s so addicting that according to co-owner Kerri Sullivan, “one guy once ate almost half a tray – he just kept piling it on!” 
Burbank’s Granville Café (121 N San Fernando Blvd, Burbank, 818.848.4726) “scratch kitchen” philosophy translates to TLC when it comes to all ingredients, even the chicken breast used as the protein in its mac and cheese. It’s marinated in-house in a mix of juices, herbs, mustard, oil and spices to tender, flavorful effect. Asparagus provides pleasing texture. 
At The Belmont (747 N La Cienega Blvd, West Hollywood, 310.659.8871), the dish is a four-ring circus of blue crab, scallions, tomatoes and smoky bacon, along with yummy shells. 
Blue cheese fans should flock to Long Beach’s AVIA (285 Bay St, Long Beach, 562.436.1047) for its rendition, in which the Maytag predominates the classic dish, but also features Dungeness crab, white wine, shallots, Fontina and Parm. 
Nearby, the Yard House (401 Shoreline Dr, Long Beach, 562.628.0455) features a house specialty, entrée-size portion. It’s a rich blend of chicken, bacon, mushrooms, cheddar, Parmesan, campanelle pasta and truffle oil. 
At neighborhood bistro Sublime (8631 Washington Blvd, Culver City, 310.287.2093), the atmosphere is casual, but the food is elevated. Case in point: penne pasta in a classic French béchamel cooked with lobster heads and shells, plus Applewood-smoked bacon, Fontina, Gruyere and Parmesan.
Westwood’s The Glendon Bar & Kitchen (1071 Glendon Ave, Westwood, 310.208.2023) is also infusing the béchamel base, in this case with jalapenos. Chef Nick Jacobs describes the effect: “It alleviates the tongue heat, creates balance, but still gives the essence of the spice.” Combine that with caramelized onions, roasted garlic, three cheeses and a panko-Parmesan crust, and it’s quite nice.
Atop Hollywood’s fashionable W Hotel, Drai’s (6250 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood, 323.962.1111) was once invitation-only for dining, but is now open to the general public, though reservations are a must. Bilbao-sourced chorizo is employed in the rustic corkscrew dish, along with aged white cheddar, a handful of Gruyere, and a little Parm.
Chorizo is also used in the ‘”mac and queso” at Ortega 120 (1814 S Pacific Coast Hwy, Redondo Beach, 310.792.4120). The restaurant had been looking for an American dish to modernize with Mexican flavors. The result is a mix of pinwheel pasta, chipotle powder, Oaxacan queso, béchamel and the sausage. 
At Covell (4628 Hollywood Blvd, Los Feliz, 323.660.4400) wine bar in Los Feliz, there are not one but three options for the dish: straight up with four cheeses, a spicy version involving a trio of Mexican peppers, or the smoky mortadella, which owner Matthew Kaner says is “diced, baked and folded in” for maximum effect. It works!
Kitchen 24 (1608 N Cahuenga Blvd, Hollywood, 323.465.2424) ups the attitude ante with its “smac and cheese.” The base is a blend of cheddar, mascarpone and Gruyere with a pretty green basil crust. From there, it’s a build-your-own free for all. Many opt for bacon, in which case crisp peas and broccoli balance it; another favorite is the chicken apple sausage and roasted red peppers, to which a little Cholula hot sauce adds a nice kick. 
At Grub (911 Seward St, Hollywood, 323.461.FOOD), there are a full four mac and cheeses that rotate through the menu and specials board. For purists, go no further than the co-owner/co-chef Denise DeCarlo’s original recipe, which has a playful cayenne kick, as well as boost from ingredients so secret she employs “if I tell ya’, I’d have to kill ya’” sarcasm in her playful Southern drawl. Enjoy it with a refreshing side of mixed greens with house made lemon vinaigrette. 
Word on the streets is that First & Hope’s (710 W 1st St, Downtown, 213.617.8555) creative flights are being grounded, but individual artisanal cheeses and macs will remain available; the rotating selection may include Cahill porter, aged goat with popcorn and triple-cream Brie. Mac & Cheza (223 W 8th St, Downtown, 213.622.3782) is all about customized versions of its namesake dish. Guests are able to choose all of the following: size, regular or rice noodle-type, cheese or soy base, veggies, meats and toppers. The possibilities are endless.
As if macaroni and cheese weren’t decadent enough in its typical incarnation, there are a couple places that carbo-load it even further.
At Boneyard Bistro (13539 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oaks, 818.906.7427), the concept involves essentially “taking mom’s leftovers, breading it and frying it,” according to chef/owner Aaron Robins. Nestled inside is a secret cheese blend mixed with standard elbow, with Louisiana hot sauce on the side for dipping. 
Across town at Café 50s (850 N Vermont Ave, Los Angeles, 323.906.1955), southern wedges are bathed in batter, deep-fried, toothpick-poked and served with ranch dressing! The cucumber and orange slices on the plate are a much-appreciated counterbalance!
And then there’s Toddy G’s (2019 E 7th St, Downtown, 213.627.1430) pizzeria. Yes, pizzeria. As in macaroni and cheese pizza, a sometimes-special that is slowly working its way onto the regular menu. Crust: good. Mac and cheese with oregano: good. Mac and cheese pizza: totally weird, but good!
Fulfilling the dream of every celiac foodie is Farm Stand (422 Main St, El Segundo, 310. 640.3276) in El Segundo, which was started by chef Alex Mosavi and Sylvie Gabriele, the daughter of South Bay restaurant royalty Guy Gabriele of Café Pierre. There are two versions presently on the menu: both involving brown rice tube “pasta,” one with spicy corn, mild pumpkin, cayenne and basil; the other a “BCT” casserole of bacon, cauliflower and tomato.
