Boneyard Bistro
By Leslee Komaiko
For dineLA.com
Contrary to popular opinion, there are good restaurants in the San Fernando Valley. (And we’re not talking sushi spots, which most Angelenos know are plentiful in these parts.) How do I know this? I live in the valley. I go out to eat in the valley. And I have fielded more than a few phone calls from friends and relatives in 310 asking, “Where should I eat in Sherman Oaks or Encino or Studio City?” Still, I admit I have Culver City envy. Over the last couple years, watching one after another yummy spot open in CC, I kept asking myself, why don’t these people open in the valley? After all, we like good food too and are definitely still in need of a few simple, fairly priced quality cafes and the like. (Are you listening to me Annie Miler of Clementine? Which is what I covet most in my ‘hood.)
That said, I stand by my initial claim: there are good restaurants in the valley. Many have opened in the last few years. So if it’s been a while since you’ve visited 818 or if your only excursions to these parts are to shop at Costco or Ikea, why not make dinner, or breakfast, or lunch, part of the plan as well.
Reservations are generally easier to come by. (According to Aaron Robins, chef owner of the excellent Boneyard Bistro in Sherman Oaks, “Valleyites don’t like to make reservations,” which means good pickins’ for everyone else.) And you avoid all that nasty traffic over the hill. So where to eat?
Near the top of my list and at the top of many 2008 lists is Palate, the wonderful dining room and wine lounge opened by Patina ex Octavio Becerra in Glendale last year. Housed on the ground floor of an impressive circa 1928 former Bekins moving company building, Palate raised the bar for dining in 818 and made Angelenos in other area codes envious of us for a change. Becerra’s supple rillettes of salmon or guinea hen, served in squat mason jars, are among the most satisfying dishes anywhere, and at $5 a pop, a deal too. Pair them with a couple 2.5 ounce pours from the smart list of wines by the glass, a cheese plate, and you’ve got the makings of a very happy evening. Palate even has a communal table reserved for walk-ins, though we prefer the comfy front dining room to the high stools and cold metal tables in the communal room.
Another crowd pleaser? Max in Sherman Oaks. Or should we say, the new Max. Late last summer, in a prescient move, chef owner Andre Guerrero closed the nearly seven year old restaurant for a couple weeks to update it with a more casual look and easier prices.
“I saw the economy was getting bad,” he explains. “Our sales were dropping a bit.” So out went the white tablecloths and in went big blackboards for scrawling seasonal specials. “I wanted to offer the same caliber food but I wanted to offer more value,” Guerrero adds. This meant moving away from super high end product like filet mignon. Instead he’s doing a flavorful hangar steak with mustard shallot sauce. Foie gras is an occasional special rather than a pricey menu regular. Max’s fans are overwhelmingly happy with the changes as well as dishes like lamb pita ‘tacos’ and steamed pork buns made with pork belly, two popular starters that embody Guerrero’s delicious take on world cuisine.
Just a couple blocks east of Max is the aforementioned American spot, Boneyard Bistro. Chef-owner Robins, a valley native, opened in 2005 to rave reviews for his hit-the-spot barbecue and fancier fare, relatively speaking, like pulled pork dumplings. He also does one of the best burgers in town, made with Kobe-style Wagyu beef. On Saturdays, you can try one of his homemade dogs. And on Monday nights, stop in for fried chicken and half priced beer. With nine brews on tap and another 140 or so available by the bottle, you won’t go thirsty.
The valley even has a haute vegan restaurant, Madeleine Bistro, in Tarzana, where non-vegans won’t feel deprived. We especially like weekend brunch. The menu is divided into sweet and savory. The former includes fresh beignet and bananas foster waffles, the latter porcini crusted tofu benedict.
Need meat? Perhaps our favorite breakfast/lunch destination is an itty bitty café called Watercress where they turn out some seriously satisfying sandwiches like warm, homemade meatloaf on good quality bread and soulful soups. And there’s always some irresistible sweet beckoning on the counter: maybe coconut milk bread pudding or just-baked chocolate chip cookies. Did we mention they’re super nice to kids?
Three charming, detour worthy bakeries also call 818 home: Leda’s in Sherman Oaks, best known for lovely little cupcakes in adult flavors, Big Sugar Bakeshop in Studio City, where they do some crazy decadent brownies ribboned with peanut butter or laced with Oreos, and SusieCakes in Calabasas, purveyor of the some of the dreamiest layer cakes and fresh fruit pies around.
Look for more good things to come to the valley. Chris Kidder, formerly chef at Literati II in West Los Angeles, is hoping to open something in these parts. But he’s waiting for the economy to pick up a bit before jumping in. Mark Gold, chef at The Edison Downtown and before that, chef at several Patina Group restaurants, also has the valley on his radar.
“Fortunately a lot of the valley has changed,” says Robins. “You have a very adventuresome new crowd.” Still, he admits, “There is room for improvement.” As someone who writes about food and a valley resident, I completely agree. Los Angeles restaurateurs, hear our call. We’re waiting for you, hungrily.
Palate
933 S. Brand Blvd.
Glendale, 91204
818.662.9463
palatefoodwine.com
Max
13355 Ventura Blvd.
Sherman Oaks, 91423
818.784.2915
maxrestaurant.com
Boneyard Bistro
13539 Ventura Blvd.
Sherman Oaks, 91423
818.906.RIBS
boneyardbistro.com
Madeleine Bistro
18621 Ventura Blvd.
Tarzana, 91356
818.758.6971
madeleinebistro.com
Watercress
13565 Ventura Blvd.
Sherman Oaks, 91423
818.385.1448
watercresscafe.com
Leda’s
13722 Ventura Blvd.
Sherman Oaks, 91423
818.386.9644
ledasbakeshop.com
Big Sugar Bakeshop
12182 Ventura Blvd.
Studio City, 91604
818.508.5855
bigsugarbakeshop.com
SusieCakes
23653 Calabasas Rd.
Calabasas, 91302
818.591.2223
susiecakesla.com
