For dineLA.com
As a kid, dinnertime can also be negotiation time. Everything was all well and good when you were out with the ‘rents cupping a greasy burger from your favorite fast food joint or at home digging into a bowl full of mom’s homemade mac and cheese.
But remember what happened when out came the veggies you so vehemently despised—like broccoli and cauliflower, or, worse yet, “weird” food from other cultures meant to broaden your horizons—escargot or chicken liver, anyone? That’s when the bedtime bargaining began.
Inevitably, you spend the next 20 years avoiding foods you were either too young to appreciate or your parents were too inept at preparing (did anyone grow up with the dreaded over-boiled Brussels sprouts and actually like them?).
The story can have a happy ending, however. Every so often you stumble upon a restaurant that changes your life with a palate-pleasing version of a dish you never thought you’d eat without the imminent threat of grounding.
One chef who specifically challenges himself to create not just edible but actually enjoyable interpretations of such ingredients is Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio from the Dining Room at the Langham.
He says, “I was a very picky eater, and through creativity, texture and flavor, my palate has developed more, encouraging me to find (and share) excitement in all foods.” One unique interpretation: an accompaniment of broccoli three ways—dehydrated, shaved stems and puree.
Then there’s the chef who inspired this story: Grace’s Neal Fraser. Who knew that the bane of every kid’s existence—Brussels sprouts—could taste like … popcorn.
Lemonade’s deli-style eateries are a veritable smorgasbord of healthy but yummy veggies. The biggest surprise here were the refreshing braised lima beans, prepared with Parmesan and lemon.
Cauliflower is transformed from ugly duckling to beautiful swan in the hands of Mirko Paderno at the Avalon Hotel’s Oliverio, He blends it with Parmesan, mascarpone and eggs to create a unique soufflé.
The Yard’s warm beet salad can’t be beat. Served with grilled avocado, toasted hazelnuts and Garrotxa cheese (as an intentional departure from the typical use of goat), the creaminess is cut by Lolla Rossa lettuce, lemon and grassy olive oil.
Patina offers a sensational vegetable medley appetizer (pictured above); constituent parts are chosen based on seasonality and may include anything and everything from sunchokes and celeriac to English peas and zucchini.
Chef Tony Esnault describes his goal: “I only use [cooking] methods that retain nutrients. I like to [prepare] each vegetable separately, using different techniques to ensure that I maximize individual flavors, textures and colors.”
It’s not often a snack makes such a big impression, but the olives at Marche deserve special mention. Covered in an earthy pistou and given a great citrus kick by orange zest, the Castelvetranos are the perfect nibble.
In summer, the place to be for tomatoes is Il Grano. Chef owner Sal Marino grows more than 100 varietals in his home garden and shares his passion with customers via tasting menus dedicated to the plant.
Juicy pot roast can be a comfort food classic or a dried-out weapon. At Jar, it’s the definitely the former and has become the restaurant’s signature dish.
Potpies have so much potential, but often fall prey to an overly crusty blandness outside and an awkward mix of gluey sauce, soggy veggies and bone-dry protein inside. Not so at Checkers, where chef Todd Allison has created a deconstructed version; crispy pastry crust crowns braised short ribs, fluffy whipped potatoes, and earthy mushrooms and root vegetables.
At Ammo, the ever-popular turkey meatloaf, the meat is married with carrots, onions, red bell peppers and egg, then steamed at a constant temperature, ensuring the moisture is retained.
Mendocino Farms, a perennial favorite for the Downtown lunch crowd, serves not one, but two versions of tuna sandwiches. There’s an albacore tuna salad with a citrusy aioli and tart green apples with or, for non-mayo eaters, the Fort Bragg panini-style melt with smoked Gouda.
Catfish, a bottom-feeder that can be a little jarring to those raised without exposure to Southern or Asian cultures, is given the royal treatment at the kitschy Nickel Diner. Perfectly cooked then coated in a just-sweet-enough pecan sauce and perched atop savory corn cakes, it’s heavenly.
For many, liver and onions never make it off the least-wanted list, no matter how much they may develop a taste for pate or foie gras. The Bistro Garden in Studio City has been catering to faithful followers of the old-school dish since it opened almost 20 years ago—and has managed to convert a few feet-dragging younger folks in the process. Co-owner Greg Pappas jokes, “You might think that liver and onions is out of style, but every time we’ve tried to take it off the menu, we encounter a revolt …”
Pate-phobes may also find refuge at La Cachette Bistro, where the popular homemade duck confit rillettes are served with accompaniments of cornichons, Dijon and toast.
Another exotic eat that eluded kids’ comprehension: escargot. Slimy snails … even many adults are unwilling to go there. A trip to Café Was might just prove life-changing. Here, they are served in a small cast iron pot, covered in house-rolled brick dough and deftly prepared with just the right balance of butter, salt, garlic, capers and lemon confit.
It’s hard to feel sorry for those fortunate enough to have tried caviar as a kid, but supposing these early experiences were at a less-than-fresh buffet, the salty specimen probably didn’t make the best first impression. Get thee to Petrossian, what many consider the gold standard for this delicacy. The best—and most affordable introduction is via the delicate blinis sampler, which comes with sturgeon eggs, plus salmon and trout roe.
- Ammo, 1155 N. Highland Ave, Los Angeles, 323.871.2226, www.ammocafe.com
- The Bistro Garden at Coldwater, 12950 Ventura Blvd, Studio City, 818.501.0202 www.bistrogarden.com
- Café Was, 1521 N. Vine St, Hollywood, 323.466.5400, http://www.cafewas.com
- Checkers 535 S. Grand Ave, Los Angeles, 213.624.000, www.hiltoncheckers.com/diningCD.php
- Grace, 7360 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, 323.934.4400, www.gracerestaurant.com
- Il Grano, 11359 Santa Monica Blvd, West LA, 310.477.7886, www.ilgrano.com
- Jar, 8225 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, 323.655.6566, www.thejar.com
- La Cachette Bistro, 1733 Ocean Ave, Santa Monica, 310.434.9509, www.lacachettebistro.com
- Lemonade, 1611 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, 310.452.6200, www.lemonadela.com
- Marche, 13355 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oaks, 818.784.2915, www.marche-la.com
- Mendocino Farms, 444 S. Flower St, Los Angeles, 213.620.1114, www.mendocinofarms.com
- Nickel Diner, 524 S. Main St, Los Angeles, 213.623.8301, http://nickeldiner.com
- Oliverio, 9400 W. Olympic Blvd, Beverly Hills, 310.277.5221, www.avalonbeverlyhills.com/dining/index.html
- Patina, 141 S. Grand Ave, Los Angeles, 213.972.3331, www.patinagroup.com/restaurant.php?restaurants_id=48
- Petrossian, 321 N. Robertson Blvd, West Hollywood, 310.271.6300, www.petrossian.com/boutique-Los-Angeles-Boutique-Cafe-6.html
- The Yard, 119 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.395.6037, www.theyardsm.com
