Pancake Lasagna | Photo by Mike Allen
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Story and photos by Tara de Lis
For dineLA.com
Sometimes it just feels good to be bad, so forget about your New Year’s resolutions—go ahead and splurge. The trick is finding the right place to fit your palate. Whether it’s butter and grease you crave, or you have a sweet tooth that just won’t quit, here are dishes worth their weight in salt and sugar.
Deep-fried pork belly at FIG
FIG chef Ray Garcia has a reputation for farmers market-driven menus with topnotch seasonal produce. But he’s also the guy behind “bacon-wrapped-bacon,” which he describes as “almost like a bacon crème brûlée.” Garcia has topped himself with a deep-fried pork belly, listed on FIG's brunch menu as an unassuming porchetta. Unlike the Italian dish that inspired it, the loin and belly are cooked separately, with the former using a more traditional roasting method, while the latter is actually tied into a log and then tucked in the deep fryer. It comes together in what chef likens to “chicharones steak.” Aside from the great texture, the deeply complex dish is also noteworthy for its aromatic maple, beguiling dots of kumquat, and shishito peppers for a subtle Asian touch.
Fans of Chef Eric Greenspan’s pancake lasagna lamented its disappearance after The Foundry stopped brunch service. With the opening of The Roof on Wilshire, the dish is back, with its layers of pancake, eggs, sausage, bacon, cheese, a maple béchamel spread between them, all topped with a cheddar tuile. The Hotel Wilshire’s staff calls it “stoner food,” while Greenspan offers this warning: “Have your morning sex early because this one will put you down.”
Meatloaf with "crack bacon" at Grub
According to Grub GM Melissa Fosse Dunne, chefs Denise DeCarlo and Betty Fraser “are listed in the culinary dictionary next to ‘over-the-top.’” One of Grub's signature items is the “crack bacon,” which has its own section on the menu and can be found in everything from hearty breakfast dishes to the house-specialty meatloaf.
Fresser's Special at Langer's
Langer’s is famous for its No. 19 sandwich, made with pastrami, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing and coleslaw. One of the popular deli’s lesser-known items is the outrageously large No. 28 Fresser’s Special. Norm Langer confides that “fresser” can be understood as Yiddish for “large eater,” or the more derogatory “slovenly pig.” He explains that his father Al “initially put [it] on the menu as a gag; he never thought we’d sell it. And we actually sell it a lot.”
Hollenbeck Burrito at El Tepeyac | Photo by yosoynuts via Flickr
In Boyle Heights, another thriving family business has its own cult favorite. El Tepeyac is the home of the Hollenbeck Burrito, so large it must weigh at least a pound or two. There are several versions of it on the menu, though the original is still the most popular. A Rojas family creation, it’s packed with chile verde, rice, beans, guacamole and topped with even more pork meat.
City Tavern fried cheese
Who didn’t fall for fried cheese as a kid? It’s fried and it’s cheese. No brainer. At City Tavern, the nostalgic dish is given an upscale interpretation: cheesy manchego “poofs” are battered and fried, then served with a dipping sauce of house-made, spicy buttermilk dressing. What really makes the poofs pop are their airy quality; none of that super-dense, stick-like consistency.
“What’s so special about a fried grilled cheese,” said the Larkin’s virgin. “Aren’t all grilled cheeses sort of fried. Like you fry an egg, right?” Nope. This one is deep-fried, as in breaded and bronzed. And why not add a little spicy mayo, too. If the kitchen isn’t slammed, ask them to add the po’boy hot links to it before cooking. We can't say whether it’s Southern or certifiable, but it’s definitely downright tasty.
Larkin's deep-fried grilled cheese
“What’s so special about a fried grilled cheese,” said the Larkin’s virgin. “Aren’t all grilled cheeses sort of fried. Like you fry an egg, right?” Nope. This one is deep-fried, as in breaded and bronzed. And why not add a little spicy mayo, too. If the kitchen isn’t slammed, ask them to add the po’boy hot links to it before cooking. We can't say whether it’s Southern or certifiable, but it’s definitely downright tasty.
Mohawk Bend baked potato pizza
Mohawk Bend is changing the face of food in Echo Park, which has long enjoyed lots of indie cred, but at the same time struggled to produce destination restaurants. The gastropub’s Private Idaho pizza—basically a deconstructed baked potato covering the top layer of a pizza—is gaining a following. It gracefully combines bacon, potatoes, caramelized onions and crème fraiche. GM Anthony Pecos says, “It’s a definite favorite on the menu, for customers and also for staff. I’ve never seen a single slice left at the end of the night.”Across town, the Fat Dog is another gastropub making a statement with a classic potato dish turned on its head. Here, skins are given the gourmet treatment with crab, hickory-smoked bacon, hollandaise, plus a little asparagus. An honorable mention should also go to the namesake dish, though a more appropriate moniker might be the “Holmes Hoffy,” which arrives au naturel. Pickle relish, mustard, and other sides are served separately, though we’re not sure they make condiments big enough for this bad boy.
Jones spaghetti and meatballs
West Hollywood’s Jones is approaching 20 years in business, and it’s kept its cool throughout. Jones is known for its bar scene, but there’s also a full menu of mostly Italian dishes. The spaghetti and meatballs is among the most popular, but according to longtime bartender Eric Tecosky, “What many don’t know is that if you order the dish ‘old-school,’ [it] comes covered in melted, gooey mozzarella [with] buttery garlic bread on the side.”
Polenta at Scarpetta | Photo by Karyn Millet
Celebrity chef-owner Scott Conant’s polenta with truffled mushrooms is a menu mainstay at Scarpetta. Though polenta seems tame by comparison to other dishes in this list, Conant's version is actually full of layer after layer of butter and cream.
Hoboken actually serves its sister restaurant Matteo’s original lasagna recipe—and this is the only place it’s still available. Not even Matteo’s itself makes it anymore. Owner Claire Heron proudly states, “It’s full of cheeses and fat and beef juice, and no one wants it changed for any reason.”
The Third Street Promenade’s secret weapon is the lovely Locanda del Lago, an Italian restaurant with a focus on the Lombardy region. The food is quite good, but in this case it’s the bar that makes the offer we can’t refuse. The Smoky Godfather starts with a 16-year Lagavulin single malt Scotch, then adds Amaretto, jasmine liqueur and Meyer lemon juice. It’s finished with a spring of rosemary and served with a small plate of crispy speck. The intention is to pair the sweetness of the drink with the saltiness of the ham; both are good on their own, and together they’re elevated.
Aunt Kizzy's chicken-fried steak
Aunt Kizzy’s is a longtime Marina Del Rey favorite, known for its down-home southern cooking. Word of warning: while the food may warm the soul, the same can’t be said for the arteries. The food here is clearly made with love and all sorts of butter and fat, without which it wouldn’t be as authentic. Favorites include the crispy chicken-fried steak smothered in gravy, with creamy mac and cheese and family-recipe collard greens on the side. The candied yams are extra, but worth every penny.
Poutine at Soleil
The French Canadian comfort food poutine sounds like a simple dish: fries covered in gravy and cheese curds. But each element needs to be executed perfectly. Soleil owner Luc R. Alarie emphasizes the importance of the curd source and only uses certain ones from Wisconsin. The Westwood Village café has long been a go-to spot for expats wanting the real thing, but customers started requesting more variety. There are now 11 available, which can be ordered a la carte or in a flight of three (nicknamed the “Glee” poutine, after cast members who are regulars). Even skeptics might be converted by the original. From there, sample the Christine version with peppery cognac sauce, and the Malik with merguez sausage and spicy harissa.
Haystack at The Six
The Six in Studio City serves a very manly, meaty version of a “haystack” for brunch. Accurately described as containing “piles” of fries, it also includes a half-pound of hamburger, cheddar cheese, chopped red onions, gravy and a fried egg on top. When asked if the dish was mostly ordered by men, the staff responded, “To be honest, it’s probably mostly ordered by hungover people.”
Pork schnitzel at Wirsthaus
Traditional German food by nature is rustic and a bit heavy, so a schnitzel is an ideal fit for this list. The beer-battered pork schnitzel at Wirsthaus, which comes smothered in cream sauce with bacon, onions and mushrooms. Chef Kenny Seliger shares the secret behind the dish: “I call it a deep-fried cream sauce because I deep fry all the added items." Pair this one with a 64-ounce “boot” of beer.
"Big-ass" ice cream sandwich at Grub
As if the “crack bacon” at Grub wasn’t enough, there’s also a “big-ass” ice cream sandwich, which serves up to eight people. The result is something that looks like it might have been served at Farrell’s back in the day. The chocolate chip cookies are humungous and the Neapolitan ice cream is pretty in pink, with everything covered in whipped cream, chocolate sauce and caramel. For smaller groups, there’s also a “half-ass.”
Photo by JW Marriott Los Angeles L.A. LIVE
When you think “rock star,” a few other vices probably come to mind before dessert, but for “rock and roll chef” Kerry Simon, the Junk Food Platter at LA Market has become his signature dish. A hodgepodge of childhood favorites, there’s house-made cotton candy, Rice Krispies treats and Hostess-inspired cupcakes.
Red and blue velvet pancakes at Larchmont Bungalow
Regulars at the Larchmont Bungalow swear by the red and blue velvet “pancakes,” which are basically an excuse to eat cupcakes for breakfast and slather syrup on them. Made with a mix of cake and pancake mix, they come topped with cream cheese frosting and house-made whipped cream as well.
Aunt Kizzy’s Back Porch
523 Washington Blvd., Marina Del Rey, 310.578.1005
auntkizzys.com
City Tavern
9739 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.838.9739
citytavernculvercity.com
El Tepeyac
812 North Evergreen Ave., Boyle Heights, 323.268.1960
manuelseltepeyac.com
FIG
101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.576.7777
figsantamonica.com
Grub
911 Seward St., Hollywood, 323.461.3663
www.grub-la.com
Hoboken
2323 Westwood Blvd., Westwood, 310.474.1109
matteosla.com/hoboken-home
Jones
7205 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.850.1726
www.committedinc.com
LA Market
900 W. Olympic Blvd., Downtown, 213.765.8630
www.lalivemarriott.com/LA-Live-Restaurants/LA-Market-22.html
Langer’s
704 South Alvarado St., MacArthur Park, 213.483.8050
www.langersdeli.com
Larchmont Bungalow
107 North Larchmont Blvd., Larchmont Village, 323.461.1528
www.larchmontbungalow.com
Larkin’s
1496 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, 323.254.0934
larkinsjoint.com
Locanda del Lago
231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.3525
www.lagosantamonica.com
Mohawk Bend
2141 W Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.483.2337
mohawk.la
Scarpetta
225 North Canon Dr., Beverly Hills, 310.860.7800
www.montagebeverlyhills.com/beverly-hills-restaurants.php
Soleil
1386 Westwood Blvd., Westwood, 310.441.5384
www.soleilwestwood.com
The Fat Dog
801 North Fairfax Ave., Fairfax District, 323.951.0030
www.thefatdogla.com/hollywood.html
The Roof on Wilshire
6317 Wilshire Blvd., Carthay Sqaure, 323.852.6002
www.theroofonwilshire.com
The Six
12650 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.761.2319
thesixrestaurant.com/six
Wirsthaus
345 North La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, 323.931.9291
wirtshausla.com
