Spago's
For dineLA.com
Any way you slice it—thin crust, deep dish, Sicilian, vegan, gluten-free or even more avant-garde interpretations of traditional pies—LA delivers on the dough.
Los Angeles may not be thought of as a “pizza town” in the way that Chicago and New York have deep-rooted histories making them synonymous with signature styles (though good versions of both can certainly be found here). California pizza tends to be less traditional and more innovative—thanks in large part to Wolfgang Puck and crew, who helped usher in an era of experimental pizza back in the ‘80s.
One night back at the original Spago (176 N. Canon Dr., Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880), Puck ran out of brioche for his house-smoked salmon plate, substituting a light pizza crust—and accidentally making culinary history. The recipe came to include dill cream, red onions and either salmon roe or caviar. Suddenly everyone wanted one. As he tells the story, “Joan Collins thought it was her pizza; Robin Leach called it ‘Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous pizza.” It remains a beloved menu staple—whether it’s actually printed or not.
Caioti Pizza Café (4346 Tujunga Ave., Studio City, 818.761.3588) is the brainchild of the late Ed LaDou, who combined his experience as the gourmet “pizzaola” at the original Spago with his subsequent role as a consultant for the more casual, family-friendly CPK chain. His signature barbecue chicken pizza remains a copyrighted menu staple at his Studio City eatery.
With the hot-ticket opening of Pizzeria Mozza (641 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles, 323.297.0101) in 2006, a new wave was born. Here, pastry whiz Nancy Silverton—a Spago alum herself—proffers her own signature style with almost naan-like crust; the one with house-made fennel sausage, red onions, scallions and panna (cooking cream) is perennially popular.
From waitlist-reservation restaurant all the way to the sleepy suburbs of Arcadia, Zelo (328 E. Foothill Blvd., Arcadia, 626.358.8298) is nothing short of amazing. To call its specialty pie simply “corn pizza” does it a disservice. A more appropriate moniker might be “double corn, double cheese”—after the duos of cornmeal crust topped with fresh corn kernels and both regular and smoked mozzarella, plus balsamic-marinated roasted red onions and chives. Gjelina (1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429) has become both a Venice neighborhood favorite and destination eatery. The pizzas are among the most sought after offerings, and one of the most interesting highlights stinging nettles, Fresno chili and mint, along with Parmesan and ricotta cheese.
The white pie at Charlie’s (22821 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.3132) in Malibu is a local favorite, and local’s also know to order it as the “white salad pizza,” so instead of just a mouthwatering blend of four cheeses (ricotta, feta, mozzarella and parmesan) and white truffle oil, it’s topped with a refreshing blend of baby arugula, romaine, hearts of palm with a zesty lemon dressing and red wine vinaigrette.
Speaking of veggies and white pizza, Vito’s (846 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.6859) white pesto with big heaping piles of ricotta is tasty, but the fresh Mediterranean veggie pie incorporates a beautifully California-fresh spin on what many New Yorkers consider a close approximation of Big Apple thin crusts. It comes with marinated spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, garlic and herbs. 
J Restaurant & Lounge (1119 S. Olive St., Downtown, 213.746.7746) downtown makes the unlikeliest of pizza toppings work—tuna and onions. The sweetness of the onions, which are cooked in raspberry wine vinegar, marries beautifully with seared ahi. 
At Breadbar (10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City,
310.277.3770), the pizza comes from a signature “secret recipe” of consulting chef Noriyuki Sugie. The Italian pizza dough utilizes Antico Molino “00” flour, and is made in-house daily. Among its less-traditional seasonal toppings are the provocative combination of emmenthal cheese and bacon, plus parsley, oregano and red onion. Abbot’s Pizza Company (1407 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.396.7334) is the self-proclaimed “home of the bagel-crust pizza.” Indeed, the thick dough is deeply satisfying. Recommended is the five-onion option with leeks, shallots and red, green and yellow onions.
In an area that has become famous among foodies for its super authentic Asian food, Petrillo’s (833 E. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel, 626.280.7332) has been a local treasure for old-school Italian since 1954. The house specialty pizza comes with substantial crust, pepperoni, sausage, onions, salami, mushrooms, green bell pepper and garlic.
Even before the family’s current restaurant beared her name, it was always “Mamma” Lordedana Cecchinato cast in the culinary spotlight at La Buca and later Osteria La Buca. But when it comes to the pizza at Osteria Mamma (Osteria Mamma, 5732 Melrose Ave. , Los Angeles, 323.284.7060), son Filippo Cortivo is the consultant. He went to school for it back in Italy—named after his wife, the lovely “Kristian,” or pear, gorgonzola, mozzarella and onions, is a testament to both his talent and training. Cortivo describes, “The style is Northern Italian—we are from Padua, close to Venice.”
Tomato Pie (2457 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.661.6474) keeps it simple with the grandmother pizza, a simple but sublime Margherita, featuring to-die-for chunks of whole-peeled, marinated tomatoes, along with fresh basil and garlic. It’s also one that native New Yorkers seek out for its thin crust. 
La Bottega Marino (11363 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A., 310.477.7777) does a delicious tomato-based pie with perfectly cooked, perfectly sized shrimp (not an easy feat), artfully sliced asparagus (it works!) and seasonal squash blossoms (beautiful!). Hostaria Del Piccolo (606 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.393.6633), the more casual offshoot of upscale Venice eatery Piccolo, serves more than two dozen variations, half with sauce, half without. Most unique, however, is the black squid ink dough, which is recommended with seafood-centric toppings like tuna or shrimp. Great care was taken in all elements of the pizza prep, down to the starter for the dough. General manager Christian Bertolini explained, “We make [it] in-house, using only honey, water and flour, so it’s easy to digest.
West Hollywood’s chic Cecconi’s (8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000) offers Northern Italian fare, specifically with a Venetian influence. Here, the nicely spiced salumi and earthy mushroom pizza is the star. 
Toscana (Toscana, 11633 San Vicente Blvd., 310.820.2448) offers Naples-style super thin-crust pizzas. Among them, the “Catarina” is an unusual but beguilingly bittersweet mix of Gorgonzola, radicchio and (optional) walnuts. 
At Terroni (7605 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, 323.954.0300), Southern Italian food is the focus, and pizzas are served as uncut thin crusts with 100-percent D.O.P. San Marzano tomato sauce. However, the ciccio, or “folded pizza,” is another great option. It’s almost like an un-pressed panini, enveloping Bocconcini cheese, prosciutto, arugula, and tomatoes. A Brooklyn import, at WeHo’s Joe’s (8539 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.0900), the square, thicker-crusted Sicilian versions are a popular pick, along with whole pies and slices of traditional New York pizza.
Breakfast pizza, it turns out is not just for hungover college kids. At Little Dom’s (2128 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz, 323.661.0055), it’s a signature dish served at both breakfast and lunch. The oval-shaped flatbread comes with smoky speck, mozzarella, tomato sauce and a sunny side up egg (though an additional one can be requested).
They say if you can’t stand the heat, get out of the kitchen. At Los Feliz’s Lucifer’s (1958 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz, 323.906.8603), this is true of the dining room as well. Heat here comes in threes: “medium,” “fiery” and “blazing” (and they aren’t kidding on that last one), though they can go “zero” for the truly timid—even gluten-free or vegan, for that matter. Says associate Allegra Sinclair, “Our pizza is designed for anyone to be able to eat it.” Lamb and rosemary is a fun pick. Deano’s (6333 W. Third St., Los Angeles, 323.935.6373) at the Farmers Market makes it a point to reduce the amount of oils and fat in its pizzas, eventually evolving to offer gluten free crusts as well as vegan cheese. The “famous Greek,” comes with an herbed white crust, pesto, feta, spinach, garlic, Kalamata olives, Roma tomatoes, minced pepperoncini and fresh basil.
Slaw Dogs (720 N. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.808.9777) is known for original creations of “haute” dogs, from regular menu items to nightly specials. Some specials have become so popular that regulars now expect them as off-menu treats. This is clearly the case with the “pizza dog,” a Vienna spooning fried mozzarella, then topped with roasted Roma tomatoes, marinara, fresh basil and Parm. It happens to go great with the house Chianti.
As if a pizza hot dog wasn’t envelope-pushing enough, Bru’s Wiffle (2408 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.2787), takes it one savory step further with a pepperoni pizza waffle. No joke, it’s a real waffle topped with sauce, cheese and meat. 
By now, everyone is familiar with Korean tacos, but what about Korean pizza? It’s a menu staple at BoHo (Hollywood & Highland Center, 4th Fl., Hollywood, 323.465.8500), where barbecued short ribs, Fontina and scallions create a unique Korean-Italian fusion. Placed on the side is kimchi and a great homemade rendition of spicy chili sauce—think Sriracha, but with more sweetness and little less kick. For max effect, dip the pizza into it. For a bit more amped up Asian-fusion flare, LA Market (900 W. Olympic Blvd., Downtown, 213.765.8600) has tongues wagging with its sushi pizza. Unlike other sushi pizzas (yes, they do exist), which tend to use crispy rice in place of crust, this one features both crust and the grains, plus ahi, crab, avocado, green veggies, mascarpone and wasabi.
At Hollywood’s Cheebo (7533 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323.850.7070), pizzas like the goat cheese and artichoke are served by the foot for dine-in orders, or by “the slab” (a yard-long pie) for takeout. It’s a concept that’s been going strong for almost a decade now.
Oak Fire (13359 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.205.9306) has developed a steady reputation for all sorts of interesting pizzas, from gluten-free and Passover matzo-crusts to wafer-thin renditions and an intense deep dish meat lovers’ pie, which was inspired by partner Jeremy Findel’s family ties to Chicago. He says, “If you go to Chicago and try five different places, the pizzas are all different. People think it’s one style and it’s not. My family are all big fans of Gino’s East, and that’s the style of pizza we’re trying to replicate here.”
For those unfamiliar, picture an upside down pizza; the crust is more like a pie shell, and from the bottom up it’s filled with a layer of bacon, pepperoni and sausage; followed by cheese, then sauce on top.
Located in Franklin Village, Prizzi’s (5923 Franklin Ave., Franklin Village, 323.467.0168) is a neighborhood institution, and lovers of deep-dish pizza flock here for the slightly sweet secret-recipe crust, which utilizes sesame seeds over cornmeal. For a layered effect, order one with both meat and veggies—the former will line the bottom of the pie, while the latter lays on top. Eagle Rock’s Casa Bianca (1650 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, 323.256.9617) has the character of a homey, neighborhood-y Italian joint—down to the red-and-white-checkered tablecloths—and the pizza happens to be excellent is as well. The nicely charred thin crust pies go over well with homesick folks from the Windy City. Meatballs and fried eggplant are among the hearty toppings, though the canned mushrooms (that’s what they use in traditional Chicago pizza joints) are a comfort food in and of themselves.
