Kazuto Matsusaka
By Leslee Komaiko
For dineLA.com
After working at some of the best restaurants in town, among them Ma Maison, L’Ermitage, Spago and Chinois, where he helmed the kitchen for nearly 10 years, Kazuto Matsusaka, a native of Japan, opened a smart Asian restaurant in Culver City called Beacon with his wife Vicki Fan. This was in 2004, well before the neighborhood became the hot dining destination it is today.
Why did you want to come to the United States initially?
When I was in Japan, I bounced around a lot to different jobs. Right before I came to the United States (in 1973), I ended up in the restaurant business in Tokyo. A friend of mine went back and forth between LA and Tokyo for the fashion business. He told me someone was looking for a young man to work in a teppanyaki restaurant, like Benihana. At that time I was working in a very tiny teppanyaki restaurant. I thought, I’m still young. And I wanted to see what’s out there.
Was anyone in your family in the restaurant business?
No.
Are there any good cooks in your family?
No. The reason I ended up in the restaurant business was because I didn’t have to worry about what to eat. If you’re in the business, there’s always food.
You have worked at some of Los Angeles’ most celebrated restaurants. Is this just serendipity?
I think you just have to be in the right place at the right time. I give so much respect to Wolfgang [Puck]. He is such a nice guy. I said to him, “I’ve worked with you for one year. I want to go to L’Ermitage and Michael’s.” I said, “Can you call the chefs there?” He said, “No problem.”
Tell me about working with Puck.
He always makes time for employees. It’s why he’s one of the most successful businessmen.
That’s something you have adopted?
Yes.
You do a smoked salmon pizza on your happy hour menu. Is that meant to be an homage to Puck?
Yes.
How do you hire good people?
I hire people based on the first impression. I don’t need all those, “Blah blah blah I graduated from CIA or I worked in all these restaurants.” Most of the time it ends up very disappointing. The guy who comes up to me with an honest face and an honest feeling and I get that good vibe, I hire them right away almost always with good results.
Beacon was one of the first destination restaurants to open in Culver City. Why did you choose the neighborhood?
We looked for a location many years. When I went to see this location, I had a good feeling. Because I don’t have the background of going to cooking school—I didn’t go to high school—my life has always been about first impressions and feelings.
Were you concerned about whether people would come?
Yes. I talked to a few colleagues and some people said, “Why are you going to Culver City? There’s nothing there.” But with the concept we have and Asian food, I thought it was okay.
Do you think there are too many restaurants now?
I think so. Lunch compared to three years ago is way down. Dinner is kind of quiet too.
That’s the effect of the economy as well. I noticed a couple restaurants have already closed.
Is this the toughest environment you’ve seen?
I think so.
Are you hopeful?
I like to think it will get better.
Well so long as we’re on a down note, tell me about The Point [the more casual Culver City spot Matsusaka and Fan opened in 2007] and why it closed?
For a couple reasons. The economy definitely affected us. The Point targeted the breakfast and lunch crowd and the first thing people do is they cut lunch. The second reason was the construction on National. Metro construction. People can’t park their car in front of the restaurant. Also, people had a tough time finding the location.
Is it a concept you’ll revisit?
I like to move on to the next thing.
Are you looking now for a space?
Not right now. We have a new baby. She is a little more than a year old.
Has that changed your view of diners coming in with children?
Beacon is one of the kid friendliest restaurants. We have always welcomed kids.
Your food is not easy to describe. When people ask you what kind of food Beacon serves, what do you say?
Asian food that I want to eat every day. It’s why I created the restaurant, so I don’t have to go out to eat.
Do you ever get bored of your own food?
No.
You work closely with your wife. Is this difficult?
No. If I have to work without Vicki, I’m going to be lost, She’s been such a wonderful partner, a great chef and a great friend. We work together very well.
Where was the last great place you ate?
Joel Robuchon in Las Vegas.
What is your favorite kitchen tool?
A pastry scraper. I use it to clean my cutting board. It really gets down and cleans up. When I do tuna fish or albacore, just wiping with towels doesn’t get it. When I chop onions, instead of using the knife to pick them up, I use the pastry scraper.
Do you spend much time with other Los Angeles chefs?
Every time I go to the farmers market, we always end up in a little coffee shop. I always see Josiah (Citrin) and a couple other chefs. I talk to the Rockenwagners.
Which is your market?
The Wednesday Santa Monica market.
What are some of your favorite restaurants?
Nanbankan, the chicken skewer place (in West LA). It is kid friendly too. I have known one of the chefs since I came to the United States. The first restaurant I worked at here, I worked with him. It also happens to be we are from the same prefecture in Japan.
If you could eat dinner anywhere in the world tonight, where would it be?
Del Pescatore in Italy, in a little town away from anything. The lady she is a three-star Michelin chef. Her mother makes pasta in the kitchen. I went there for my 50th birthday. It was fantastic.
How much do things like Zagat, Yelp and the blogs matter?
I think we have to pay attention to every little thing. When somebody mentions our restaurant, it always helps. I try not to ignore them. Vicki tries to pay attention to all those promotions. Especially in this economy, whoever comes in the door, that helps.
What do you like to do in your free time?
Play golf.
Are you good?
I am pretty good. Among the restaurant people I have a reputation. I manage to play around 80.
Beacon, 3280 Helms Ave, Culver City, 310.838.7500, beacon-la.com
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